With all the parts cleaned with Jizer and washed in detergent, let's begin.
Grease the ball ring with lithium grease and fill with 3/16"balls. Then remove one ball at the end.
Tap the retaining ring on with a hammer working carefully around the circumference.
Grease the wheel bearing in the driver, put in the 1/4" ball cage and place the retainer ring.
Tap the retaining ring on with a hammer. Do not over tap! the lip of the ring should be flush with the driver top.
Repeat the previous step on the left hand side. If you are using just 1/4" balls, fill the track with balls.
Both wheel bearings installed in the hub and grease pressed into the channels of the dust traps.
Lower the planet carrier down on to the axle. Note that the axle should be held with the sun uppermost on the thicker section.
The hole in the planet carrier is a nice fit on the shoulder above the sun. Cutouts in the axle for the key are above it.
Put a planet in...
...and drop the planet pin down with the narrowed end uppermost.
Repeat on the other three planets. They can go in any way.
Slide the clutch collar down aligning the holes with the slots on the axle.
Drop the clutch down on top of this. Note the steps on the arm ends must be uppermost.
Push the axle key in through the hole in the clutch collar and out the other side.
Steps in the axle key should be uppermost as shown.
Slide on the axle key collar. The cutouts in the underside fit over the ends of the axle key.
Place the thin washer on top of the axle key collar.
The annulus will go on next. Note that you can fit the high gear pawls to the annulus before this step if you want.
Locate the annulus on the four planets by rotating it slightly.
Here is a high gear pawl. Note that it has chamfered sides that fit inside the annulus.
Hold a pawl spring on with the short wire on the inside and the engaging end of the pawl to the left.
Carefully push it into the annulus slot and have the pin ready in the other hand.
Ease the pawl pin in with the tapered end first. Make sure that it goes through the rounded part of the spring.
Here is the assembly after adding both of the high gear pawls. Test them for springiness.
Place the ball ring over the top of the annulus and rotate into place.
If you rotate the ball ring you will hear the pawls ticking.
Slide on the clutch spring with its collar on top.
Pour in a little bit of oil, about a teaspoonful at this stage.
Position the driver as shown holding it above the collar on the clutch spring.
Screw on the cone so that it pushes down on the collar, taking the driver with it. Rotate driver to get it to mesh with the clutch.
Screw up the cone finger tight and screw in the toggle chain...
...and pull it up to see if you can engage all of the gears. You will probably need to turn the driver.
Pour another teaspoon of oil into the annulus and rotate the mechanism to disperse it. I use 4 stroke lawnmower oil.
The low gear pawls are not reversible! The long, sharp end goes to the right. Hold spring on as shown.
Put the pawl pin in tapered end first, feeding it carefully through the rounded part of the spring.
Repeat the step on the other side of the planet carrier.
Here are both pawls done. Test that they spring in and out nicely. All the hard work is now over.
Oil the outside of the mechanism. Be careful not to let the low gear pawl pins fall back out.
Oil inside the shell. Don't go overboard; about a teaspoonful should be enough.
Hold the shell with the axis horizontal so that you do not displace the pawl pins. Insert the mechanism.
Screw the ball ring into the shell. Rotate the mechanism if the low gear pawls are catching.
Hold the axle on the flats on the drive side and screw on the left hand cone. Leave it fairly loose at this stage.
Drop the anti turn washer on.
We still need to adjust the cone on the drive side so do not lock the left hand cone before that is done.
Screw on the left hand side cone locknut.
Protect the jaws of the vice and grip the drive side flange of the hub. Tap the ball ring with a hammer and an old screwdriver.
The drive side cone must be screwed fully home on the axle. Sturmey Archer specify "finger tightness"...
...then backed off between 1/2 and 3/4 of a turn. The left hand cone should not come tight.
Lock the cone in place with the tab washer. This adjustment is very important.
Screw on the cone locknut and tighten it down. Not too aggressively!
Adjust the left side cone. Sturmey Archer suggest that there should be a trace of play at the rim of a 26" wheel.
Rotate the driver to test for adjustment. Put the dust ring on the driver.
Drop a sprocket spacer over the top of that...
...then the chosen sprocket. Selection of sprockets is one of the joys of building up hubs.
Then the second sprocket spacer. AWs built after the year 2000 may only need one spacer or possibly none at all.
Ease the circlip into the groove in the driver and tap it with a hammer to bed it in.
Put the washers on. Screw in the toggle chain. Now test the gears by poulling out the chain in two stages. Don't worry; they will all work!
Unscrew the chain again, thread it through the flared nut and re-screw it back into the hub. Then screw on the flared nut.
Put the washers and nut back on the left side. The anti-turn washers are on the inside and the cast thick washers on the outside. Well done!